TECHNICAL FAQs
Our most frequently asked technical questions, giving insight into troubleshooting, error codes, and product fixes.
What do I do if I’m getting an E01 Error on my SmartGauge?
An E01 error shows when your SmartGauge unit has been disconnected and reconnected. The onscreen error will be accompanied by a value for the time lapsed (in hours) since reconnection occurred.
What do I do if I’m getting an E02 Error on my SmartGauge?
An E02 error displays when a voltage is recorded by your SmartGauge, which is lower than expected for the selected battery model. This indicates a very discharged battery.
What do I do if I’m getting an E03 Error on my SmartGauge?
An E03 error displays when a voltage is recorded that is higher than expected voltage for the selected battery model. Often this indicates a voltage spike from a charging source, solar panel or wind generator. Once established that it is a temporary spike, and not consistently high voltage, rather than a faulty charging system, the E03 error can be disabled in settings.
What do I do if I’m getting an E04 Error on my SmartGauge?
An EO4 error means that your battery voltage has exceeded the measurement range of SmartGauge. SmartGauge can accurately measure voltages between 9.00 and 17.00 volts in 12-volt mode and between 18.00 and 34.00 volts in 24-volt mode. Check the system for a discharged battery or high charging voltage. On a 12V system, Lo is below 9V, Hi is above 17V. On a 24V system, Lo is below 18V and Hi is above 34V. Note that Hi and LO errors will clear as soon as the voltage returns to within the measurement range. They will, however, leave an “E04” error code on the display, this can be manually cleared.
Is SmartGauge compatible with Lithium Battery?
SmartGauge is not compatible with Lithium Batteries due to Lithium having a completely different charge profile and operating parameters to all other batteries it will not work fully with SmartGauge. The voltage reading of Lithium batteries using SmartGauge will be very accurate, but state of charge will not be.
On my SmartGauge Bat 2 shows LO. What does this mean? What should I do?
Either there is no battery connected to the Battery 2 input or it is below 9V (9V for 12V systems, 18V for 24V systems), or there is a cabling/fuse fault. Check to see if terminal B2 has a wire attached. Check the B2 terminal for voltage using a voltmeter. The voltage at the B2 terminal should measure above 9V. (9V for 12V systems, 18V for 24V systems).
My SmartGauge buttons are not doing anything. What should I do?
In rare cases, the PCB may have become dislodged inside the box. Check to see if the PCB has become dislodged inside the box. To realign the PCB, remove the back panel from the unit and reposition the PCB in the grooves.
On my SmartGauge, which battery type should I choose for AGM (lead acid) batteries?
For genuine AGM batteries, choose type 3. Use type 3 only for genuine AGM batteries. The genuine AGMs have the electrolyte held in a glass mat, but with additional chemicals in the battery.
There are other Glass Mat type batteries without the additional chemicals. This type usually has charge voltages very similar to flooded wet cell batteries. The off load terminal voltages will also be very similar to flooded wet cell batteries. If your AGM batteries are of this type then SmartGauge should be set to battery type 1.
Which type should I choose for my battery on SmartGauge?
Type 1: Standard wet cell deep cycle Lead Acid. Use this setting for Standard vented Lead Acid deep cycle batteries or, Lead acid recombinant (have a catalyser in the cap to recombine the oxygen and hydrogen back into water that is normally lost during charging in a standard Lead Acid battery) do not confuse with VRLA (AGM or Gel).
Type 2: Gel Cell. Use this setting only for Gel Cells
Type 3: AGM - Absorbed Glass Mat (VRLA). Use only for genuine AGM batteries. The genuine AGMs have the electrolyte held in a glass mat, but with additional chemicals in the battery.
Type 4: HYBRID - Also known as Antimony/Calcium or Hi-Calcium. Usually identified by being sealed, but the acid inside the battery is still liquid. Many are fitted with a ‘magic eye’ to give an approximate indication of battery condition. Usually marked maintenance-free, and it's normally not possible to open the top of the battery.
Type 5: Carbon Fibre Lead/Acid batteries with Carbon Fibre additives to the plates.
Type 6: Maintenance-free, Calcium/Calcium.
Type 7: Custom Program. Do not select type 7 unless your SmartGauge has been supplied with a specific battery program.
My M-Power VSR is not closing. What should I do?
Check for voltage on either terminal. If it is above 13.3V it should close. If it doesn’t then ensure the black 0V wire has a good connection.
My M-Power VSR is constantly closing and opening. What should I do?
This is also known as chattering. If the voltage fluctuates between higher than 13.3V and lower than 12.8V, it will cause the unit to open and close rapidly. This can be caused by one battery bank being much larger and/or much more discharged than the other.
I've installed my Wakespeed WS500 PRORegulator. Now, how do I set it up?
Everything is set up via ‘The Wakespeed Configuration Utility’ Bluetooth app. It’s available for download, for free, on the App Store or Google Play Store.
Will my Wakespeed Regulator connect to my Victron system/products?
Yes, the Wakespeed WS500 PRO Regulator can integrate seamlessly with a Victron system. Use the CAN cable (Part number: 05-5006) to enable this integration.
My Wakespeed is not working. What should I do?
Look for error codes (lights flashing on the unit) and refer to the manual. Check all connections and fuses for faults or loose connections. Ensure the regulator is seeing a positive voltage on both cables 6 and 11.
My SmartBank advanced has a E11 Error showing. What should I do? What does this mean?
This indicates that split charging should be taking place, but the SmartBank is measuring different voltages on the B1 and B2 terminals. There are several reasons for this:
1. Contactor failed – this can be checked by energising the coil contacts with 12V to ensure the contactor is operating. (NOTE: Contactors rarely fail)
2. One battery bank is considerably lower than the other.
3. Connections between the CPU and the batteries and the CPU and the SmartBank. Check all connections.
4. Faulty CPU
To troubleshoot your issue, measure the voltage of B1 and B2 at the CPU and contactor – these should be the same as Battery 1 and Battery 2. Additionally, measure the voltage of C1 and C2 at the CPU and contactor – briefly 12V dropping to approx. 6.5V. Test your wiring between the batteries, CPU and Smartgauge. Test the contactor by applying 12V to the C1 & C2 connections.
My SmartBank Classic is not working. What should I do?
Check that the contactors are functioning by applying 12V ( or 24V in a 24V system) to the coil contacts. (NOTE: Contactors rarely fail).
Please note that the SmartBank Classic system is no longer made and has been superseded by SmartBank Lite. SmartBank Lite has the same functionality and features, but benefits from hardware updates.
My SmartBank Pro is not working, what should I do?
Check that the contactors are functioning by applying 12V ( or 24V in a 24V system) to the coil contacts. (NOTE: Contactors rarely fail) .
Check that the CPU has a 12V ( or 24V in 24V systems) supply on the red and black wires. Check fuses and connections in the high-current cables between batteries and the contactor. Ensure that when the vehicle is charging, the measured voltage is higher than the connection voltage.
My PowerGaurd Pro is not working. What should I do?
Check that the contactors are functioning by applying 12V ( or 24V in a 24V system) to the coil contacts. They are latching contactors, so it may require a reverse connection to open/close. It is recommended to apply the voltage for no longer than 1 second (NOTE: Contactors rarely fail).
Check that the CPU has a 12V ( or 24V in 24V systems) supply on the red and black wires. Ensure the isolation switches are opening and closing the contactor when operated. Check fuses and connections in the high-current cables between batteries and the contactor, ensure these are installed correctly, and that there is no visible damage. Additionally, check that the pink wire, if used, is connected to an ignition feed.
If the contactor is not closing as it should, check that the system voltage is higher than the set low voltage disconnect. If the contactor is not opening as it should, check that the system voltage is lower than the set low voltage disconnect.
What do I do if I receive an E01, E02, E03, or E04 error message on my KISAE product?
E01 The unit has sensed input under the prescribed voltage and has shut down. Check the battery voltage and recharge the battery if it is below 12V. If the voltage is above 12V, check the DC wiring and the fuse.
E02 The unit has sensed input over the prescribed voltage and has shut down. Check the battery voltage and charging sources, shutdown occurs at 15.5V.
E03 The unit output has sensed an overload or short circuit and has shut down. Disconnect all AC equipment. Eliminate any faulty AC equipment by testing it individually.
E04 The unit has sensed that the internal temperature was high and it has shut down. Switch off the inverter to allow it to cool down (for a minimum of 15 minutes). Check the airflow of the unit.
My KISAE DC-DC Charger is not turning on. What should I do?
There are a few troubleshooting actions you should take. First, ensure that the onboard switch is switched on. Then, check if there is a voltage of >8V on CH1 (>8V on a 12V unit, >16V on a 24V unit).
My KISAE DC-DC Charger has a Low Output. What should I do?
There are a few troubleshooting actions you should take. First, check the settings to see what your max current is set to.
Next, make sure that your auxiliary batteries are not already fully charged. This would prevent maximum output from your DC-DC charger as your battery is unable to accept any more charge.
Also, it's always recommended to check your connections. Measure voltages at DC-DC Charger and your Batteries to ensure no voltage drops across cables. The measured voltage should be the same (or within 0.1-0.2 of a volt).
I have a KISAE DC-DC Charger, and the Auxiliary battery is discharging when not in use. What should I do to resolve this?
Test for any parasitic loads on auxiliary batteries. This is easily done by using a current clamp to determine if the equipment is draining the battery. If your system is left unused for long periods of time, consider isolating auxiliary batteries.
Can't find the answer to your question?
At Merlin, our support team are always on hand to help. Give us a call on 01202 697979, email us at sales@merlin-power.com, or fill out a quick and easy form on our 'Contact Us' page.